Ceramic Floors Produced
As a beacon, it's best to use the beacon profiles that are easy to get in any construction store.
You don't need to try and build lights with cement pest or hips. It will not be possible to create a sufficiently flat lane, and then the point of contact of the beacons and the main solution will be exposed to separation.
Installation of beacons shall begin from angles and with a distance between them less than the length of the rule by 10 cm. In order to meet the correct level of installation, it is best to use the scrubs that are stuck in the wall on the top of the beacon section. There's a suspension on the top of the neck, the rest of them roll out when their hats are flat with a strap. Don't forget to level the fuss at one level along all the lines of the profiling, and to remove the straight angle between the planes on the shura hats and the surface of the adjacent walls in the room. The profiles shall be set and fixed.
Put a small amount of solution in the middle of the line and in several places. Bladder profile on the line, so they're on their bases and they're going down a little bit of a solution. When the solution is dry, it will be possible to proceed directly to stitching.
If the final layer of the unit exceeds 10 to 15 mm, its application should be divided into two stages. First bypass, put the solution on the wall and level it so that it does not reach the beacons of approximately 5-10 mm. When the first layer of solution is dry, it's possible to get to the end of the thing.
The solution shall be superfluous and shall be equated with a rule which shall be hidden at the ends of the beacons. A tool from the bottom up should be maintained, slightly posing it from the side, in no case breaking its beacons. It's best if the flat surface works after the first passages.
The angles between the wall and the floor/ ceiling shall be removed when the bulk of the solution has already been slightly captured but still wet. This operation uses a special skill to create internal angles.